Analog Photography User Group

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Updated: 21 weeks 2 days ago

FS: (Australia) 120 and 35mm film for sale. C41, B&W

Sat, 03/22/2014 - 07:13
Need to sell following film, since I need to make more room in my freezer for other film:

Bulk rolls (100ft/30.5m):Kodak Tmax 400 (exp 3/2015): $85
Ilford Pan F+ 50 (exp 4/2016): $65
Fomapan 100 (exp 5/2015): $55
Fomapan 200 (exp 10/2015): $55

35mm (all 36 exposures):
UXi Super 200, 8 rolls (exp 1/2014): $3.50 each
Ferrania Solaris FG Plus 100 (9 rolls, exp 03/2013) and 400 (6 rolls, exp 12/2013): $8 each.
Kodak Colorplus 200, 9 rolls (exp 12/2013): $3 each

120 film:
Fomapan 200 Creative, 8 rolls (exp 2/2016): $5
Fomapan 100 Classic, 3 rolls (exp 9/2015): $5

Pickup in Sydney is fine. Postage anywhere in Australia is as follows:
up to 500g - $7.50
up to 3kg - $12.50
Categories: Photography

[Cafenol] Where did i error?

Sat, 03/22/2014 - 06:54
I tried caffenol development with a correctly exposed Kodak TriX 400.

I used a recipe with:

12 teaspoons of instant coffee.
6 teaspoons of sodium carbonate.
1 g of ascorbic acid.

The developing time was 1.6x the developing time of D-76 for the same film (TriX 400).

The room temperature was 25°, and making all the calculations, i was left with a time of 12 mins.

I presoaked, and then i accidentally developped for 16mins, with the correct agitation (constant inversions on the first minutes, and 3 inversions per minute after), then i washed 2 times with water, one with water and vinager, another with water and a drop of dish washer.

After all of that, the problem: The film was still opaque, and the photos seemes very underexposed.

What did go wrong?

Anyway, i now put it on a very saline solution to fix, and i'll let it for 36h to fix. I boiled water with salt until it got to the maximal saturation, and then filtered it.

Anyone now why did the film didn't turn out clear?
Categories: Photography

Anamorphosis, Anamorphic Cylindrical Lens Paintings and Making Similar Camera ?

Sat, 03/22/2014 - 05:25
I am looking for your ideas to make a camera and lens or mirror exactly replicates below paintings :

Vera Bugatti

Vera-Bugatti-Anamorphic-portrait-mirror.jpg

Istvan Orosz

757px-Anamorph_with_column0.jpg

And an forgotten painter

511Fpszuv-L.jpg

I have posted an article on a russian research thesis on anamorphic lens design history,methodologies,toric,ellipsoid,cylindrical lens design , their aberrations in to articles section.

May be if We can reach a common point on the raw shape of lens or mirror or box , We can go in to the calculations. I want quality and I want to keep pinhole is a later exit but may be its large depth of field is better for get a all clear image but I am open to every ideas.


Mustafa Umut Sarac Attached Images
Categories: Photography

Citric Acid dor Stop Bath

Sat, 03/22/2014 - 05:20
I'm switching from Kodak stop bath to citric acid (powder form) to eliminate the smell. The only formulation I've found says to mix 15 grams per litre, but that's for paper development. Can I assume that it's the same for film development?

I meant "for" stop bath, not "dor. More coffee needed for these 6AM posts.
Categories: Photography

My 35mm film for your 120 film

Sat, 03/22/2014 - 01:37
Ok friends, I have some extra 35mm film I would like to sell off or ideally just trade for 120 film. I have 6 rolls of Arista Premium 100 (Kodak Plus-X) in 24exp, 6 rolls of Legacy Pro 100 (Fujifilm Neopan Acros 100) 4 24exp, 2 36exp, and 10 rolls of Fujifilm Superia X-TRA 400 in 24exp. It's all been cold stored and I had lots of each of these stocks with consistently wonderful results.

I would sell the whole bundle for $128 or do a direct swap for some 120 film. I'm just about out of c-41 so I wouldn't mind some Portra 400 perhaps, but I am a die-hard black and white shooter so let me know what you've got. Attached Images
Categories: Photography

you know its been a long week when...

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 21:59
you decide to leave early. home alone, so no distractions! great! gonna pick a nice wine from the cellar, grill up a nice steak and develop a few rolls of B&W.

get the bottle and stand it on the counter for later. get the steaks marinating. all is well. Load up the first 2 of 4 rolls of film. 2 rolls of acros and 2 rolls of retro 80s. at least thats what i thought i had......

well it turns out a week ago i took out the retro 80s roll from the bulk loader and put in a roll of provia. but i forgot to lable the film cartridge as such. so what i got was one roll of retro 80 and a roll of provia done in pyro HD. needless to say it didnt come out well. I should have stopped when i dumped the pre-soak water out as it had the provia pink to it. but i was on auto pilot and didnt even think about it till later. the negs are not salvageable for printing. i managed to get something via scanning from the provia but the retro was gone. oh well.

lesson learned, have a drink before and during film development. this should ease the mind and clear the head. at least the last 2 rolls turned out. :D
Categories: Photography

Summicron R 35mm f2 Leitz

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 20:46
Summicron R 35mm f2 Leitz
As you can see from the pictures. The front element does have scratches, however, it hasn't affected in any of my pictures. It is my favorite 35mm along with a Zeiss 35mm f1.4 and my new Sigma 35mm. So something has to go. Cosmetically the barrel does have some paint wear as well as an indented hood and filter treat. So no filter, but hood is still usable (stiff but usable). Rear glass is clean and focusing as well as aperture ring work perfect. For sale as is, no returns.
$699
Shipping is $20 via USPS Priority Mail with delivery confirmation (insurance extra). Payment I will accept gift option, regular paypal (add 3%), USPS MO or personal check.












Categories: Photography

Leica Ernst Leitz Wetzlar Summarex f=8.5cm 1:1.5 M39 Screw Mount Lens & Case, Shade

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 19:36
DESCRIPTION: Used, 1952 Leica Ernst Leitz Wetzlar Summarex f=8.5cm 1:1.5 M39 Screw Mount Lens With Case, Shade & Caps. SN# 1008481. As shown.

CONDITION: Please use pictures to help judge appearance. Outside lens body has some minor finish wear, scratches, light soiling, etc. that would be appropriate for a 62 year old lens. I see no scratches on the outside of the elements, there is some dust specks inside and some very light fogging/haze. Focus is smooth. Blades are dry. Case is very good with light wear. Front cap fits loose.

PRICE: $ 899.00

Price Includes Shipping. USA shipping only. Shipping is thru the USPS only and will include tracking and insurance.

If you want this item, please send me a PM. I might miss you if you just reply to the thread. And I’ll need your email address, to send you a paypal invoice, if your paying that way.

MONEY ORDERS & PAYPAL ACCEPTED

PAYPAL PAYMENT NOTE: If you want to pay for this item using paypal, send me a PM (private message) with the email address you use for Paypal. Once I have that, I will send you an invoice thru paypal. As soon as the invoice is paid, I will ship the item.

PLEASE READ THIS…IF YOU’RE PAYING WITH PAYPAL…I will only ship to confirmed paypal accounts within the USA. If your paypal account is not confirmed and the shipping address is not in the USA, I’m sorry, but I will deny the payment. Also, please don’t ask me to ship to another address that’s not your registered and confirmed address with paypal. I won’t do it. I hope you understand.

FYI - I have 100% positive feedback as a seller on ebay. If you want to check my reputation let me know.

PS - 3% of my net sales are donated to this sight. I truly appreciate the venue they provide us.

Thank you for your time,
Tom Attached Images
Categories: Photography

Canon FD lenses: enigmatic pin

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 19:28
That "reserved" pin is found on the very first FD lenses still with chromed filterring up to models from the 80s, maybe even to the very last model.

In literature I got there is no explanation other than for possible future use. On the net I only found one source, hinting at an indicator of the focal lenght of the lens, staggered in three steps: short, medium and long.
Even if that would be true, it does not make sense to me.
What use would that information have had at all? More so as early as 1971?

In the latest FD-cameras there were AE-programs for those different focal lengths-groups. Did one have such in mind as early as at the start of the FD-range? Hard to believe.
Categories: Photography

Mamiya Pro TL 645, 80 2.8, 150 2.8, (2) 120 backs, power winder, Polaroid back, more

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 14:22
Mamiya Pro TL 645 Kit - $775

78 high resolution photos of the kit, plus photos that I took with this kit:
http://wentzelphoto.com/mamiya_protl_645

Includes:
  • Mamiya ProTL body
  • Mamiya Sekor 80 mm f/2.8 (clean glass, no scratches of fungus)
  • Mamiya Sekor 150 mm f/2.8 (clean glass, no scratches of fungus)
  • Two Film Back with 120 Inserts
  • Beattie Intenscreen Focusing Screen with original box and instructions
  • Prism Finder (Non-TTL)
  • Polaroid Film Back Magazine with three packs of film
  • WG401 Mamiya Power Winder
  • Hand Crank
  • Mamiya Bellows Lens Hood for 645 Series
  • Mamiya Rubber Lens Hood
  • Mamiya Electromagnetic Cable Release (cracked, works, see below) with original box and instructions
  • Mamiya Neck Strap
  • Original ProTL 645 manual
  • Think Tank Photo Airport Commuter Backpack, very good condition - http://www.thinktankphoto.com/produc...-commuter.aspx

It’s time to sell my beloved Pro TL kit as I’ve started shooting 6x7 and have now another downsized 645 system.

This kit is in 8.5/10 condition with some parts showing almost no use and other parts showing some use and wear. The only damage is on the Electromagnetic release cable, which still works but should be epoxied at the trigger head to prevent further damage.

Having two 120 film backs to keep two film types unhand or for quick loading is very handy.

The Pro TL has many “fool-proof” features that make it so you can’t easily ruin a roll of film by opening or removing a film back without the blackout plates in the right spot. Make sure you read the included original manual if you’re not familiar with how this system works, or you’ll be scratching you head.

All the mechanics work smoothy and precisely as they shoot. I’ve shot many dozens of rolls without any problems, except for those
that were caused from my own clumsy mistakes.

The Polaroid back is like-new, with what I think has only ever been used once or twice. I used it once, just last week, and it worked perfectly. It’s still loaded with film.

Again, here are 78 high resolution photos of the kit, plus photos that I took with this kit::
http://wentzelphoto.com/mamiya_protl_645

Link to the official instruction manual for pre-purchase reference: http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/assets/fil..._Pro_TL_v8.pdf

Shipping:
Insured, Three Day FedEx Express Saver Shipping included to the Lower 48 - Signature Required. Insured Priority Mail to US/HI. USA ONLY, sorry.
Ships from Santa Rosa, CA 95401. Can ship as soon as 3/25 for delivery by 3/28.

Payment:
PayPal Preferred.

Terms:
Sold AS-IS, no refunds.

Contact:
Please email or PM with questions or if interested in purchasing. I’m on the road this weekend, but I will be checking email. If you need to speak, we can arrange a time to talk. randy@wentzelphoto.com

Thank you for looking!

Randy Attached Images
Categories: Photography

Question reusing a Minolta autocord view finder

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 13:50
I wanted to try out TLR so purchased a Minolta Autocord. the viewfinderf has four grid lines spaced about 20 % from the edge of the frame. I assume the lines are there to assist you with the alignments of your horizontals and verticals. Having never used an autocord and having yet to see the results of my first film, I am starting to wonder how the final image compares to what you see in the viewfinder. I am assuming that the area inside the grid lines is not the "image area" but the actual image area approximates the full size that you see on the ground glass. Does anyone else have an Autocord and can answer this question. Thanks
Categories: Photography

Nikkor-H 50/2 pre-AI $25

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 13:18
Lens is BGN grade. Has filter ring from an HC version. Glass in good condition, albeit a little dusty. Diaphragm snappy. Focus smooth, except for a little bit of a jerkyness around 2 feet. Filter ring isn't completely straight, but filters do thread on without problems. AI prong, but pre-AI lens. Comes with bakelite "Nikon" cap that has some foam tape residue left from a Sima CapKeeper, and a Nikon LF-1 rear cap.

$25, plus shipping via USPS Priority Mail from 98019.

-J Attached Images
Categories: Photography

Nikon 35mm f/2.0 Ai-s, Last Version made before AF

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 12:48
This is the last version of the legendary Nikon 35mm f/2.0 Ai-s lens.
All-metal construction...no plastic.
Absolutely like new.
No blemishes, no marks, no signs of it having been used.
Sold complete with both front and rear lens caps.

Details
Name: Nikon calls this the Nikon Nikkor 35mm f/2 Ai-s.
Optics: 8 elements in 6 groups, Multi-Coated.
Conventional spherical design.
Diaphragm: 7 blades, stopping down to f/22.
Close Focus: 1 foot (0.3m).
Maximum Reproduction Ratio: 1:5.7
Filter Thread: 52mm, Nikon's standard since 1959.
Size: 2.0222" extension from flange (focused at infinity) x 2.4752" diameter (51.36 x 62.87 mm)
Weight: 9.992 oz. (283.3 g)

$270 + $10 shipping Attached Images
Categories: Photography

Large Format Photography Ray Nelson October 3-5, 2014

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 11:59
Large Format Photography



You are going to take film photography to a new level, a level of detail and quality that can be achieved by no other photographic media. You will learn to take photographs using a camera designed for 4x5 inch or larger film. Your experience with 135 or 120 film will certainly be useful but you will learn a variety of skills needed to effectively take advantage of the improved clarity and detail achieved with a large negative.

You will learn to operate a large format camera to correctly compose and focus your image to the camera’s ground glass. You will learn the rise/fall, tilt/swing features of the camera’s front standard for creative control. You will learn a systematic method to achieve maximum depth of field and precise focus using the tilt feature. You will learn to interpret light meter data to arrive at a correct exposure. You will load film holders, take photographs, and develop the film. You will make contact sheets and traditional 8x10 photographs from your work.



Friday – Meet & Greet and Familiarization with Facilities & Equipment

Saturday – Lecture & Practice

Discussion and practice on camera use

Take photographs & Develop Film

Evaluate / Discuss Results

Sunday – Lecture & Practice

Field Shoot

Develop Film

Monday – Practice & Wrap up

Make Contact Sheets

Wrap Up

What to Bring: Notebook & pencil, Clothing suitable for outdoors in Montana, Willingness to learn, Patience

A more specific list of all equipment and materials needed, will be sent to you via e-mail in advance of your course.

Tuition: 495.00

Save up to 25% off tuition

An early registration by the 31st of March 2014 qualifies for a 15% discount on your workshop tuition.
**Register and attend two classes consecutively and receive one night of your B&B stay free also receive a 10%
Discount off the second weeks tuition
Enjoy our women’s retreats with Laura Blacklow and Jane Goffe. Renew yourself and restore your creativity. A spa is nearby and available for an extra cost.
Remember our bring a friend Discount 10% is available when you both sign up for the same workshop

Workshops in Montana
7079 Hwy 83 N
Condon MT 59826
(800) 922-5255 / 406-754-2891
www.workshopsinmt.com
formulary@blackfoot.net
Categories: Photography

Alternative Process Printing From Digital Negatives Ray Nelson May & October

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 11:55
May 9-11, 2014 or October 17-19, 2014
Alternative Process Printing From Digital Negatives

You will learn to make photographs using the little known and almost forgotten 19th century kallitype process. The traditional Kallitype is one of the most interesting, variable, and beautiful printing processes ever devised. Until recently the process required a negative produced by a large format camera with film processed specifically to produce this photograph. Our approach is much more flexible and begins with a film negative, a print, or a digital image file. The image is processed via computer to produce a “curved adjusted” negative printed on very high quality transparency media.
You will begin with your image and use Adobe Photoshop (Registered Trademark) on your computer to adjust levels, brightness, and contrast to create a digital image suitable for kallitype. Then you will apply a digital “correction curve” to the image and create a negative suitable for printing. You will learn to prepare the print emulsion, developer, clear, and fix solutions. You will coat fine art paper with the kallitype sensitizer, determine the correct exposure for your image, print, & and process your photograph. You will evaluate your work and adjust your printing parameters (duration, develop, clear, print) to suit your photograph.

Friday – Meet & Greet and Familiarization with Facilities & Equipment
Saturday – Lecture & Practice
Lab Procedures & Safety, Chemistry, Papers, Supplies.
Making a Contact Sheet & Using it to select a negative to print
A procedure to create your work print
Photograph Printing - Refining your print technique
Sunday – Lecture & Practice
Photograph Printing - Refining your print technique
Print Toning, Bleach & Redevelopment
Monday – Practice & Wrap up
Photograph Printing & Print Toning
What to Bring:
Notebook, pen/pencil, Willingness to learn, Patience
A more specific list of all equipment and materials needed will be sent to you via e-mail in advance of your course.

Be sure to specify which dates you would like to attend on this workshop.

Tuition includes housing, meals and lab supplies

Tuition: 495.00

Save up to 25% off tuition

An early registration by the 31st of March 2014 qualifies for a 15% discount on your workshop tuition.

**Register and attend two classes consecutively and receive one night of your B&B stay free also receive a 10%
Discount off the second weeks tuition

Enjoy our women’s retreats with Laura Blacklow and Jane Goffe. Renew yourself and restore your creativity. A spa is nearby and available for an extra cost.

Remember our bring a friend Discount 10% is available when you both sign up for the same workshop



Workshops in Montana
7079 Hwy 83 N
Condon MT 59826
(800) 922-5255 / 406-754-2891
www.workshopsinmt.com
formulary@blackfoot.net
Categories: Photography

FS: 8x10 Ansco Camera + 5x7 Back

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 11:29
I believe this is an Ansco 8x10 Universal Camera. It has a built-in extension rail and is in good operating condition. The bellows are light-tight and I have patched them in the corners. Has 20+ inches of bellows extension. Comes with an additional 5x7 sliding back, that can take 2 3.5x5 photos. Needs a top handle. Weighs about 13.5 lbs.

$475 plus postage. Paypal accepted.

Jon
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Categories: Photography

darkroom chemical disposal

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 11:23
Hello,
I live out in the boondocks and have a septic system; that is a septic tank and underground drain fields. Are there any highly diluted photo chemicals that I should avoid putting into this system? If so what do other people do with their nasties?
charlie
Categories: Photography

Tempor shutter speeds

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 10:45
After having been confirmed in another thread (Tessar lens) that the lens on my Welta Weltax is good stuff, I turned my attention to the shutter.

It's my impression that many of these old folders often combined good glass with less excellent shutters or the reverse. Mine has a TEMPOR shutter that is recently cla-ed. Speeds and self timer are running fine, except the fastest shutter speed promising 1/250.

I took interest in finding how much of the open time the shutter blades spend travelling from closed to fully open and back again from fully open to closed. So I tested the speed at 1/250 and f:16 which gave 1/106, and also at 1/250 and f:3.5 which gave 1/180.

To measure the open time at max aperture, I only let light through to the periphery of the lens by covering with a cardboard. See photo.

Ironically a little math shows that the time the shutter blades spend on opening/closing is close to 1/250! Attached Images
Categories: Photography

GF670 Focus issue or are my eyes jacked up?

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 10:19
To preface this, I also have a GW690III which produces beautiful sharp images...

My GF670 is brand new from one of the top 2 NY stores that's not named B&H. First thing I noticed when I got it was there was a nice fat finger print on the range finder window. Now that does not really bother me, it wipes right off. However combined with my apparent problem focusing, I wonder what kind of early life my camera had.

With the 670, I noticed I just can't seem to get a sharp image while looking through the viewfinder. Shouldn't it be sharp in the viewfinder? Just seems a little off. Went down to the local camera show where a guy was selling diopters and I tried a bunch of them thinking it's just my eyes. I couldn't seem to find one that gave me that sharp image.

Just developed my first roll and I can see where my images are just a little off so I think I have an issue here. So combined with the fingerprint which I don't think would have come from the factory and the focus which seems to be off I am considering two choices. Send it back to the store for a replacement or send it to Fuji for adjustment. I did do a little searching and have seen where people have had focus issues, which I assume can happen with any rangefinder, but one post I read said Fuji sent it back and said it was in spec and they still had the problem.

Just thought I would throw it out there for some feedback.

Cheers,

Ned
Categories: Photography

Ugh...I just massacred some film...

Fri, 03/21/2014 - 09:25
Hey All,

So I got myself a 1L C-41 powder kit from Argentix and decided to develop a roll of proplus II and superia 800 I had lying around. I just finished my first experience developing and the film is hanging to be dried. Good news is the negative looks great, the bad news is when I was spooling the film on the reel in the dark bag, I did it very badly and didn't know it. A lot of the film is warped. I was practicing with a roll of expired film for 2 days and thought I had it...but I guess not.

Anyone have any tricks with using the changing bag or is it just a matter of practice and just knowing by feel that you got it right?
Categories: Photography