Would this adapter work to allow TTL flash metering using a metz 45 ct-5, with a nikon F4 or 5? I could not find anything regarding it specifically.

thanks,

william

Please note: To access wider audience the same thread was posted over at LFF. I will try to synchronize the information posted on both sides. I hope this approach is OK.

After many hours browsing and I am coming up with a very limited number of places that actually provide the chemicals or kits necessary for Platinum and Palladium printing (end even less for the Na2 method)

So - here I am trying to put together a list of places that actually carry the supplies needed. It would be great if other could share their own experience. Also interesting would be to know places that sell "bare" chemicals to individual. Please note that many chemicals or compounds are not eligible to be shipped outside given country (definitely the case for USA)

My search for the necessary chemicals is based on the 2nd edition of "Platinum and Palladium Printing" by Dick Arentz.

So - the list (as of 12/2011):

Bostick & Sullivan
- USA
- probably the place No.1 - they carry pretty much everything one may need for wide range of alternative processes.

Photographer's Formulary
- USA
- carry the sensitizers (Ferric oxalate) A and B, but do not have palladium or platinum salts (confirmed via email). Offer nice 8x10" contact printing frames for only $60.
- kits for other alternative processes available, but no Pt/Pd
- paper: Crane's 90 lb Cotton Rag

Artcraft Chemicals, Inc
- USA
- have most of the chemicals necessary, but not the restrainers (oxidizers) and also not the palladium salt solution (sodium tetrachloropalladate). According to their webpage they plan to provide Pt/Pd printing kits, but none are available as of know. I am waiting for answer from them though.

Fotospeed
- UK
- no Pt/Pd stuff, but again well priced contact printing frames and coating rods
- offer "Fabriano Paper, 300 gms", though I do not know which one - I will ask for details and update.

Moersch Photochemie
- DE (the only supplier in Germany that I found)
- carry a limited selection of Pt/Pd chemicals including the Pt/Pd salt solutions, but the "Solution B" (contains Potassium chlorate) or the Potassium chlorate is missing.
- they also offer a few suitable papers (Berger COT 320, Cranes Kit Ecru, Herschel Platinotype)

Fotofachversand.at
- AT
- not relevant fo most, but this is the only place where I found the 21 step Stouffer step tablet (1.5 x 15 cm)

* PLEASE * if you are aware of additional shops that have the Pt/Pd supplies (in particular within EU), please share it here. Right now it seems that one is not able to get the full set of chemicals in Europe, which I hope is not the case ...

__________
Note: It seems that for private person it is not possible to buy Potassium Chlorate (KClO3 - Kaliumchlorat in German) in Germany because of its reactive properties (Schools or such are allowed to buy it). So this may mean that the only way is to find the premixed solution B (27% ferric oxalate, 0.6% potassium chlorate).

This may be a subjective question, but I have the opportunity to pick up a Rolleicord V while I'm saving for my dream Rollei. The seller is asking $250 but the camera has an intermittent shutter speed problem. I'm assuming it needs to be overhauled (and probably a CLA for the whole thing) The glass is in excellent condition. I don't know tons about these, so I'm wondering if I should be negotiating or not, or if I should even just pass and wait for something else. I'm slightly hesitant since by the time I spend the money on the maintenance, a hood and filters, and replace the focusing screen (provided I decide that the stock one is indeed to dim for me) I'll have spent half the cost of a Rolleiflex 3.5E. But, at the same time, I've read that the 'Cord V is no slouch. Thanks in advance.

I don't know if this was posted before but I found it pretty amazing: http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/201...ntury_ago.html

I am always amused by the latest and greatest digital sensation when in reality nothing in photography has changed in 100 years...except us of course, chasing magic bullets.

There was a recent thread on film, which ended up going off topic and touched on human visual perception.

http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/...icks-the-eyes/

I'm looking to purchase a Sinar 8x10 P or P2 in excellent condition.
Thanks

I just bought on Ebay for $72, a Schneider kreuznach componon 5.6 / 360 enlarger lens. I saw the photos and I thought it was small than it really is. I'd like to mount it on my 45MX with a stage conversion for a lens turret. The board it came with is larger than the standard Beseler 45mx lens board. My plan is to convert my 45MX to be able to print 5x7 negs. Attached Images

• monster_lens.jpeg‎ (32.5 KB)

I found an old Dagor in a box of junk and it has me a bit stumped. I know pictures would help, but I'm going to be away from a *igital camera for the next week or so. Here are the details. Lens: Goerz Dagor, F6.8, Series III No.0, Focus 4 3/4 in. The lens in a japanned barrel with a pinion focus. Neat little window on the barrel reveals a brass distance scale. The barrel is marked IIIa, C.P. Goerz, Berlin. It's mounted on a Graflex 23 board. Shutter: C.P. Goerz Am. Opt. XecelL Sector. Condition: Not good. The front group has major fungus and separation, the shutter does not work. On with the questions.
Is this lens at all worth the time to sort out the damge to the front group? Also, what is up with the sector shutter? Inside it sure does not look like a "sector type" shutter. Rather it looks like a strange design where the aperture blades do double duty as shutter blades.

Regards,
Matthew

Hey,

So I finally got this enlarger almost up and running.

Made a negative carrier + lens board. Popped a 150mm F9 Kowa repro lens in it (yes, it covers 5x7) and tried to focus the thing.

Unfortunately I cannot collapse the bellows enough to make it focus properly.

I don't think this is an issue of how thick the board underneath the easel is or how far the easel is away from the base of the enlarger because I'd have to move the easel up about 8" to focus properly.

My thought is that the lens is simply too short for the enlarger but I'm unable to find a definitive answer via google.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Does anyone have a copy of Photo Techniques (Vol. 17, No. 6, Nov./Dec. 1996)? I'd like to see Bruce Barnbaum's article on Potassium Fericyanide. I've asked Bruce if he has a copy but unfortunately he doesn't. Does anyone have this sitting around?

Hi all,

I’ve been playing around with a Konica Auto S2 that I found from my local thrift store. It is in great condition mechanically except that the viewfinder was out of whack.

I’ve tried adjusting it many times to various targets but can’t seem to calibrate it properly. That or the yellow patch is too dim for me to properly focus... Either way, my focus points are always off.

Anyways, this had me thinking about rangefinders in general. I’ve played with the idea of purchasing a voigtlander bessa R camera but here’s what I’m thinking: I’ve come to realize that one of the problems that may creep up with an RF is misalignment. This scares me because I could shoot an entire day or few not knowing that my rangefinder is misaligned and get shots that are not focused properly.

1) Is there a way to tell misalignment before it happens?
2) Do rangefinders get misaligned often?

Appreciate the feedback!

Hi!

I'm searching for a Kodak EK 300 film or any type of film that would fit this camera (heard about the FUJI-800GT). Anyone who could help me out where I could buy such a film?


Thnx!

Nothing too new here, mostly changing single rolls over to pro-packs. 8X10 shooters may want to stock up while you can. Odd, I thought E100VS was going to be totally discontinued, this makes it some good news... Attached Files

• Kodak_Announcement.pdf‎ (49.7 KB)

Hi all,

This should be an easy set of questions for anyone versed in electricity, which I am not!

Ok, in short (get it??), I'm going to be mounting 7 lamp sockets into a board which will have 2.5' legs on it (resembling a TV tray) and the contact frame will be placed below this. I'm using CFL black-light bulbs, so no ballasting or anything fancy will be required. So if I I'm not mistaken I can just connect these lamps sockets straight into "the mains" via a normal AC plug. I do intend to include a switch, and not yet, but maybe a cooling fan down the road depending on how hot it gets.

So my questions are:

1- Do I need to wire this in series or in parallel? The extent of my wiring experience is with speaker cabinets, which, depending on your ohm requirements, can be wired in series or parallel. But since I don't think they'll be any resistance to speak of, does it matter with this circuit? Or lets say I want it to work with a bulb unplugged, I assume a series circuit will require all bulbs to be present to complete the circuit. Depending on the answer to this, further inquiry may arise!

2 - What type of wire (gauge, braided/solid) is considered safe for 120V applications? Would it be wise to include a fuse in this circuit, and if so, what amperage?

3 - Is a 2-prong plug sufficient? If in theory I were to use a 3-prong, where would the ground even go??

Thanks in advance for preventing me from burning down my house, electrocuting myself or a combination of the two!

and p.s., I'll post pictures once it's done. :)

Hi all,

I have someone with the 40mm for Hasselblad that has damage to the front element. He is bringing it to me now to see the extent of the damage. From my understanding he isn't sure if its a crack or a deep scratch to the center of the front element. Either way, is there any repair source that will replace a damaged front element or is the lens relegated to a parts lens? In my experiece, if the glass is damaged there typically isn't any repair option especially with a lens of this rarity but if there is an option I'd like to share it with him. Thank you.

Many of the older emulsion formulas in Wall's and Eder's require chrome alum with is nearly impossible to get as an individual in Austria, therefore my question can chrome alum be substituted with glyoxal or other easier obtainable hardeners?

Thanks Dominik

Print presentation has, in its arsenal, many subjective qualities with which its author may, or may not, match the aesthetic needs of the viewing public. Indeed, those very needs just might not distill into a convenient generic paradigm which satisfies all. For example, I do not like 'titles' on prints (other than those that are purely and objectively descriptive) because one, then, seems to be robbed of the liberty of 'reading into' the print, as opposed to 'being told' what to see. I like to think for myself. I might not agree with the author and, thus, become at odds with him.

Similarly, print size becomes another factor to deal with. Perusing an old copy of Shutterbug, the brilliant writer Roger Hicks had an article on this very subject: print size. He actually made quite a convincing argument for making smaller print sizes and used a word that immediately struck me as perfect prose and syntax: 'intimate'. I have always liked prints to be smaller than most have wanted (or thought would be wanted). They are more comfortable to view and force one to get closer. Of course, subject matter must come into play when deciding upon print size (ie, a large group's portrait or vast scenic will demand sufficient magnification, whereas a single face, or a picture of a single, small numismatic or philatelic item such as a coin or postage stamp, allows and encourages this 'intimacy' and might even benefit from lack of a larger, distance-forcing 'footprint').

Of course, if distance from print to viewer must be an unavoidable factor (museums, art galleries), that factor will be an ultimate determinant here, as only then will a larger print 'regain' such sought after intimacy (if necessarily viewed from afar). The bottom line is that visual comfort and lack of physical efforts effects in order to attain an ideal vantage point indicates real success with the size choice. Prints must segue into our normal way of seeing things and must not become an undue burden when extra physical factors have to come into play, in order to achieve this vantage point.

I guess what I would really like to stress is this: some printers feel that larger is always better and, thus, large size indicates a more profound, more 'professional' representation of one's artistic endeavor. However, 'generic' aesthetics, refined and measured through an amalgam of humanity, does not always see things that way. Sometimes subtleties become more potent than bombast, aggression, and an underlying inference that 'largeness' might make up for a decided lack of artistic focus. We live in a society which defines, at times, such subtleties as subordinate. Thoughts? - David Lyga.

Wie heeft er ervaring met het werken met Canadabalsam.

Wil een Prisma losweken en opnieuw hiermede kitten.
Nu zijn er diverse producten waarmede je deze delen
kan losweken. Heeft ook hier iemand ervaring mee?

Mocht iemand weten waar ik ZUIVERE balsam kan
bekomen dan houd ik me ook aanbevolen.

Benieuwd naar reacties.
THeo

It's gotta go! I'm only offering this for 24 hours at this price. I want a G2 for vacation, so this has got to go quickly. Paypal Only (no e-checks).

Gx680III Body in good condition, works like a champ. Includes wide angle bellows.
GXM 80mm Lens
135mm lens (not sure if it's GX or GXM)
Spare Extended length wide angle bellows.
Set of 6x7, 6x6 and 6x45 inserts for the IIIn back
IIIn Film Back with 120 Insert
Two 220 Film Backs (orginal series, not IIIn, but works great with this camera.)
One 120 Film Back (orginial series, not IIIn, but works great with this camera.)
Prism Finder (non-AE)
Two Polaroid Backs (both I think are the newer series, which works with the III better than the original version.)

Price: $1,000 Plus shipping ($30 in the US via Priority Mail), I'll pay the paypal fees.

Gentleman, this is a deal. Attached Images

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Hi all,
Please follow the link if your interested in joining us on Agistri/Greece next April.
http://www.agistrihotels.com/
It will be fun and it's very good value.

Cheers Jon