I have decided that I HAVE to get a Zorki. The 1 is the most appealing to me, but I know that there are many viariations of it as well. Anyone have a preference between the A, B, C, D or E? Go for a Industar-50 (3.5/50mm) or the collapsable Industar-22 (3.5/50mm)? I plan to use this as a day to day go to camera, and will be soing a bit of everything with it. I am fine with having to trim the film, and understand some of the quirks that are built into them.

***If anyone has a nice setup to let go of and has a need for a Nikkormat FT2, a Canon F1n, Ftbn or a Yashica TL Super maybe we can work something out...***

I'm trying to figure out how to make a shutter for a new barrel lens I have, the Packard would be great but I need one with a 4" opening which seem to be pretty rare and/or very expensive if purchased new from Packard. I was wondering if anyone had tried building their own using the packard design. I was thinking I could borrow a shutter from a friend, pull the blades out, scan them into the computer, enlarge them and then print out new templates to be cut onto thin plastic. I could probably figure out some kind of air piston or just actuate the shutter by hand.

Of course if there's a simpler way of getting this done I'd love to hear it. I've seem the Jim Galli dark slide shutter but shooting outdoors with no aperture in an F6 lens it seems like it'd be tough to be anywhere close to consistent.

Thanks for any input.

Back last year when I bought my Crown Graphic from a local photographer, he threw in two boxes of long-expired B&W 4x5 Polaroid film: Polapan Pro100 Type 54xp. 5/1997, and Polapan 400, exp. 11/1995. The pods are certainly dried out, but I'm wondering if the film itself is still viable. If so, could I peel and develop it myself in Rodinal, Caffenol, etc., or would I be completely wasting my time and should toss them?

Thanks!

So,there are raindrops on the cactus. I thought I would get a few macro shots. Picked up the Canon T50, inserted fresh batteries and the film won't auto load. Press on the shutter release and the damn thing just beeps at me. WTH. The T70 and I just don't get along. It tells me there is film loaded and I can get 40 shots before I realize something is amiss...ready to throw it in the nearest lake or river if only there was one. So I pick up my Pentax Super load some B&W film and the camera may or may not take a shot horizontaly. I did manage to take a vertical shot (after twelve frrames of whatever) after holding the shutter release for about ten seconds and the beeeping and the flashing viewfinder and shake and more aggravation and it too is destined for the trash bin. I $%#*'ing give up. I was hoping to feel better after writing this but I don't. C'est la Vie:(

Time to clean out under the darkroom table a little bit. Here are three contact print frames:

1. Premier 8x10 contact print frame (black). Actual glassed size is 7 5/8" x 9 11/16". $25 plus postage.

2. Lovely oak 8 1/2" x 11" top-load contact printing frame. Not marked as to maker; looks like very good workmanship in oak. There's a small hole in the back where you stick your finger to push the negative, paper, and glass up for removal. This frame has a solid back and is not the sort where you can open half the back to check on progress. The glass lifts out and the weight of the glass keeps the negative and paper flat in the frame. $40 plus postage.

3. "Mioplex Printer". "Multiple strip contact printer". Looks like it will hold four 4x5 negatives. I can't remember where this came from and haven't used it. $10 plus postage.

I take Paypal or USPS money orders (not other brands of money orders, please!) If you have questions or comments, please ask. Thanks for looking!

Mike Attached Images

• Premier2.JPG‎ (54.7 KB)
• Other1.JPG‎ (58.1 KB)
• Other2.JPG‎ (60.3 KB)
• Mioplex.JPG‎ (59.5 KB)

I was going pretty well with Maco Superlith (in relatively short dilutions) and Kentona before both were discontinued. I am really struggling to get back to speed using Moersch Easy Lith and Fomabrom IV. To get myself straightened out, I have a few basic questions for anyone experienced in this process:

1. What is the shelf life of unmixed Parts A & B, in partially full containers?
2. How long will mixed developer last in an open tray?
3. What is the approximate capacity (8X10 prints) of 1000ml of developer at 1+18?
4. Speaking of dilutions, Moersch alternately gives the possible range of dilutions as between 1+15 to 1+50 and 1+1+20 to 1+1+80. Am I in brain-lock, or is it so that 1+1+20 of A+B+water equals 1+10+water?

Finally, does it make sense that a negative that prints well in Ethol LPD 1+3 when exposed for 14 seconds at f11 is still underexposed and require upwards of 25 minutes development when exposed for 90 seconds at f8? Or, is my developer cooked?

Sorry for the lengthy post, and thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out.

Regards,
Henry

Yup, another discussion about mercury batteries, but different than I could find in the archives. I don't want to re-start the same old discussion on Wein cells and hearing aid batteries. The best solution to the mercury battery problem is to adjust the meter circuit to use silver oxide bateries. I say this after looking at the curves of voltage verses temperature and current of the series diode solution. The series diode is a "sloppy" solution. I am looking for someone who has adjusted the meter to use silver oxide cells who is willing to share the procedure. I have done camera repairs, CLA and electronics bench work, so I am not afraid to tackle the job, I just don't want to "re-invent the wheel". Thanks.

Best regards,
Chris

Should I keep it or consider an upgrade to something newer for my film bodies?

A heads up for those that have never done such, for those that are new here, or those that are "sorta" new here ...

If you have a favorite artist, photographer, printer, etc... just try doing a search for their name and you'll likely see a post where they in fact have contributed! I am always amazed by this site and the plethora of information here - and super excited when I see someone I admire actually posting here. It's like seeing your favorite movie star at your local grocery store!

That's all. I just get excited sometimes. :)

Good condition with some normal signs of age and use, there is some grease on the blades but they move smoothly and lock down firmly. This is made by Gesetzlich Geschutzt. The maximum aperture opening is 80mm and the outside dimension diagonally to the mount holes is 145mm.

I don't have any sort of reference as to how much these generally go for so I'm taking offers today.

Attachment 43184 Attached Images

• aperture.jpg‎ (178.7 KB)

I recently purchased an jobo atl2. It seems to function well when I tested it with water. I found an online manual but I still have a question. After a chemistry sequence, it will purge the chemistry out of the reclamation hose (I haven't got the reclamation unit underneath it), but i guess it is also possible to pomp the chemistry back into the bottles?? Anyone familiar with this machine that nows how you can do this? Many thanks,

I got a roll of "Jessop" KB17 (label written as ISO 100, but KB17 should be 40, no?).

Is Rodinal 1+100 1 hour stand good with this? Or is 1+100 way too active like with some other films?


I don't want other developer suggestions, its the only one on hand at the moment, and I would like to mix it with a few other rolls I know are great at 1+100 1 hour stand.

I've seen beautiful results I like with 1+150 1 hour stand with Adox CHS 50, which is said to be basically the same. So I was leaning towards that.

I am offering a sealed can of 35mm 100ft/30.5m film Kodak Ektachrome Slide Duplicating Edupe. Expired in march 2011, always kept refrigerated. It includes a set of Kodak Wratten color compensating gelatin filters for this batch of film (5Y+10Y=15Y, 20C), and an additional 40Y filter for duplicating Kodachrome.

I am asking 115 euros including shipping within Europe and paypal fees (120 euros outside Europe).

Hi Forum from a new member

I am looking to get a bronica GS1 system, having used a Pentax 67ii in the past. I enjoy using wide angle lenses and am looking at the 50mm PG lens. I use a Lee filter system and thus am looking at getting the 95mm Lee Adaptor Ring for this lens and using the 4" ndg filters. Do you know if this combination will cause any vignetting?

Thanks
Karl

I bought a problematic Yashica mat 124g thinking that I could tackle it, but I think I'm getting more than I bargained for. I cleaned the lenses, mirror, and unjammed the shutter so far (works perfectly now), so my spirits are still high.

I have removed the lens board from the camera, and I noticed two washers (shims?) on the viewing lens side that go between the board and the focusing rail. They're very thin, brass colored, and I managed to lose one of them.


My questions are: Do I really need these washers? Can I focus accurately without them (i.e. board sitting bare on the rail)? Also, shouldn't there be four of these washers? It seems odd that I only encountered two when the lens board attaches to the focusing rails with four screws (two on the top, two on the bottom). Does this mean that the taking lens focuses at a slightly different place than the viewing lens?


And finally, what is the best way to pull the pin off of the winding lever? I want to get under the hood, but this pin won't budge.


I really don't want to send this to Mark Hama - this camera is too beat up to be repaired professionally. (Well, it's not bad, it's just that I can't justify it). I'll take any help I can get.

Hi,

I have used HC-110, Rodinal and D-76 with Tri-X and have noticed that Rodinal and D-76 seem to produce more specs on the negatives. I'm attaching an example showing this. I don't believe this is dust because I air blow it before I scan and it's consistently worse with Rodinal and with D-76.

I don't have a problem with this, per se, but I was wondering what it is about the different developers which causes this to happen more.

Thanks!

-jbl Attached Images

• Screen Shot 2011-12-17 at 10.54.45 PM.png‎ (39.0 KB)

Has anyone had any experience using the Haoda electronic Contax Zeiss lens adapter to EOS bodies?

I would like to hear all the comments any users may have on the field use of the adapter or any other brand you may have used.

I am aware that N series Zeiss lenses can be converted for full use on EOS as well but that is a pricey conversion.

Would like to have access to a body such as EOS or Nikon F3 or 4 that can be adapted to use existing Zeiss inventory and also be able to utilize some specialty optics from either Canon or Nikon.

Has anyone used Grimes for fabrication of an adapter to EOS or Nikon with your Zeiss lenses.

I think the Contax EOS compatibility potential is a BIG plus at it's face value but want feedback from anyone that has gone down this path.

I am looking for an Aristo D2-Hi cold lamp head with a v54 VC tube in good condition. Possibly other Aristo D2 or Zone VI cold lamp or stabilizer parts that can be salvaged to make a good one.
Thanks, Chris

This is a clean shutter and work well, but the instant, "pin" mode doesn't function. Includes a new rubber bulb and tubing.
$35 including USA shipping. Or $40 w/international shipping. Paypal accepted.

Jon Attached Images

• packlast.jpg‎ (11.3 KB)

I am purchasing a Bessa R2 around Christmas time for myself. I will need a nice lens to go along with it. I've been looking at color skopars. I'm trying to keep it around 250 usd. What other options do I have? I would like it to be 2.8 and faster. Suggestions would be appreciated!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk